Last year, we hit up the Buttermilks. It was my first time there and it was great but I gave up my annual trip to the red for it. I wasn't giving it up again this year.
We flew in on a flight with some MITOC folks, grabbed our rental wrangler, grabbed food then went climbing at Phantasia. I tried Phantasia but ate the poo. I just needed to try but I sucked.
Second day, we were at the Infirmary. Mainly because it's overhanging with some moderates and it was drizzly in the morning. We met the CRG Cambridge crew there. I somehow managed to climb all new things and logged no falls. Yay.
Giulia on Typhoid Mary.Giulia on magic bedAlexJ-Hag on Last RitesJohn further up Last Rites
Next day was supposed to be cold and we had originally thought to go to Gold Coast / Solar Collector for some warmth but ended up hiking into the Gallery. Giulia got to try Starry Night while I did some random stuff around it. We did a little at Curbside before heading home. It was a half day for me.
Giulia up on Starry Night
Today was my day since Giulia was resting so I decided to hit Bob Marley. I took a painful fall on Enjoy the Process when my right foot got stuck doing a Dyno. On the second go, my hand slimed off the Dyno hold and tore off some skin. I tried skinny love but was dumb not to bring a knee pad. It was painful. After two wrong turns on our way to Drive-by, we arrived. I got back on Head and Shoulders after 10 years and realized that I didn't have knee bar tech back then. I wanted to get on Hakuna Matata but it was getting gang banged so I did the climbs around it. One of them being described as the worst climb at drive by. It was actually pretty okay.
Back to Drive by. Giulia does breakfast burrito and I get on Hakuna Matata. I get a burn on Dirty Smelly Hippie and get all the knee bars on my actual knee. It was painful. I eat it and try again and get the knee bars on my actual knee again and fall. What the hell? I get on Mazie Mae to give my knee a break since it was all bruised and scraped up. I finally figured out all the moves. yay. I dry fire off this right hand Gaston next burn and I am mad. Whatever. There will be a next time I'm sure. We get gas station fried chicken after and I must say, I haven't had better from a gas station.
Giulia's first time in Miur Valley and we hit Solarium. She gets on Magnum Opus and I get on Summer Sunshine and some Mr Petey climb. Giulia gets on Super Best Friends and Delicatessen. We head over to Arsenal to try Bullfighter in the sun. It was pretty rough in the sun then over to the Great Arch for some slopers for Giulia. Giulia and I get on Beef Stick. She thinks it's the softest 12a she's ever been on. Back to Solarium. Some guys have their rope on Mirage but they say they aren't getting on it for 10 minutes. I ask if I can get a 10 min burn. They say yes so I fire up Mirage in about 10 mins. Such a good climb.
Delicatessen I thinkSuper best friends maybe?Bathtub mary
It's my day so we head to the lode. Wanted to warm up on Stain and I did and barely sent it. Still feels hard. Giulia gets on a cool looking climb to the left and we head to undertow where I get revenge on SKWBA which still felt hard. Giulia gets on Chainsaw and I get on Resurrection. Suss'ed out beta first try then fired it second go in the rain/t-storm. Was nice to run into Koti and Jess there.
Giulia's first Redpoint BBQ experience
Chocolate Factory because some of the stuff continues to be dry. Giulia gets on Oompa and Loompa. I try Scarlet Scorchdropper which is a beautiful scary line. Then Gilgamesh, Fatman and Shootin' Hot Hugs. Most of these climbs were dry. Saw Jix at Fatman, D-Flynn at EGBG, Liam at Miguel's and Damien while waiting for our pizza. Also some Rumney folks at the gear shop. Wow.
Giulia on Scarlet ScorchdropperI found a wild JixI think I run into Dan on trips more than I run into him at homeLiam!Giulia's first Miguels experience
Giulia really wanted to get back on Hakuna Matata so we went back to drive by. I warm up on Dirty smelly and my foot slips at the upper crux right before the final knee bar. Sad. Giulia warms up on Head and Shoulders I get back on Dirty smelly and send with fresh beta from Joe, the guy that had just gone up. Giulia sends Hakuna hanging draws. Nice! I get on Mazie Mae and one hang doing the dyno at the top. Sad. Giulia tries Naked and botches the top. We head to Bob Marley and I get on Skinny Love and fall at the crux. I try again and send with Jix on belay.
Hakuna Matata
Final day and half day since we needed to catch our flight. It's sub freezing temps and I didn't want to risk disaster getting out of the Motherlode so we went back to where we started at Phantasia. It was almost too cold to climb but we made it work. Then the long drive to the airport and the 5 hour delayed flight.
Trusty wranglerPogue Ethics
I'm happy I finally sent Dirty Smelly Hippie although I wished it didn't take that long.
I really don't like my blakpad.
I really do like my La Sportiva Theory's for this rock.
Our crappy $17 pole we bought at walmart got us up all but 5 climbs then failed entirely on our last day. Perfect!
Our rental wrangler got us up and down the lode without much problem but the 4xe hybrid part of the car was useless and we got 20mpg average.
Overall, it was nice seeing people I haven't seen in a while. Sadly we didn't have time to catch up because climbing is more important? Next time though! Except, I don't know if I'll make my way back to the Buttermilks or not.
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. This thing is
hard. Wet slopers at the top. I bypassed the last wet pocket by
standing really high off a side pull and reaching the top
Nov 8, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Someone's
draws were on. Stick clipped one and reversed right at the 3rd bolt for a
shake almost on top of another line. Brought up a right knee pad.
Didn't use it
Nov 5, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. 3 hang
first go and 2 hang second try. My right knee is so messed up. Either
strap on lower or wear protection for my knee
Nov 4, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Bring a
right knee pad next time. Helpful for second to last clip. Fell around
there a lot trying to figure out a sequence. Figured something out. Hope
I don't forget for next time
Nov 2, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Hard near the
top. Clipped a bolt then the chains and the bolt underneath the roof
for Max zigzag drag. Happy the hold above the roof was good
